Bonedi Bari (heritage homes) Durga Pujas: their traditional bhogs

 Kolkata and the century-old Bonedi Bari are special attractions during Durga Puja. With their golden past and traditional rituals that have been continuing for ages, it’s worth visiting. Another main attraction is the relishing feasts that are prepared to serve Maa Durga.

1. Sabarna Roy Chowdhury Atchala Durga

This is said to be the oldest family Durga Puja in Kolkata. The Atchala Durga Puja was started by Lakshmikanta Majumder in 1610. The Majumders received the title of Chowdhury from the Mughal Durbar in 1626. The 370 years old Durga Puja is older than the city itself.


The Bhog:
The Maha Bhog comprises Ghee Bhaat, Basanti Pulao with dried fruits, Khichuri, deep-fried vegetables with dried lentil balls known as Bori, curries, traditional fish dishes and Payesh.

On Dashami, Maa Durga is treated with a unique meal of Panta Bhaat, Kesari Daal, Kochu Saag (taro leaves), Koi Macher Jhal, and Chaltar Chutney (elephant apple).

2. Sovabazar Rajbari

Sovabazar Rajbari (Image courtesy: Moumita De Das)
Sovabazar Rajbari (Image courtesy: Moumita De Das)

Durga Puja at Sovabazar Rajbari was started by Raja Naba Krishna Deb in 1757. It was for the first time when non-Hindus were allowed to see a Bonedi Bari Puja. It was said that Maa Durga comes to listen to music, hence at the famous Nachghar (dancing room), a musical soiree is held at night. Sovabazar Rajbari had the traditional ritual of flying Nilkantha Birds on the last day of Puja. Later on, this was forbidden by the Wildlife Preservation Act. Now, clay models of the bird along with the idols are immersed.

The Bhog:
As per the tradition, a relishing variety of ‘Monda Mithai’ or gigantic sweets prepared by the Brahmin cooks on the Rajbari premises is served on giant salvers. Some of the sweets are Gaja, Square shaped Gaja, Pantua, Peraki stuffed with cinnamon flavoured Kheer, Katkati, piping hot Shingara, Radhaballabi and so on. A unique item served is the Motichoor Laddoo.

3. Chhatu Babu Latu Babu’s Durga Puja


Ishwar Ram Dulal Deb Sarkar was one of the leading businessmen of Kolkata, who organized Durga Puja in Ramdulal Nibas, Beadon street in 1770. The grand house is named after Ram Dulal Deb’s sons Chatu Babu and Latu Babu. Maa Durga is decorated with family heirlooms and ornaments which includes a dazzling ‘Naulakha Haar’.


The Bhog:
Maa Durga is served a meal comprising of Luchi along with three kinds of vegetables fried in ghee. The food is cooked without salt. For the guests in the family, an elaborate meal is prepared. Radhaballabi, Chhanar Dal, Dhokar dalna, Stuffed Capsicum, Cauliflower curry, Mishit Doi, Darbesh and Ledikeni are served.

4. Laha Bari Durga Puja

Durga Puja in Laha Bari was started by Late Bhagabati Charan Laha and the puja is now over two centuries old. Here, Maa Durga is seated on the lap of Lord Shiva with her eyes closed. This idol is known as Haragouri. The deity of Jai Jai Ma or the Astadhatu Idol is brought from her family seat to the Thakur Dalan during the days of Durga Puja. It is heard that the original Astadhatu Idol was been stolen about 100 years ago, but the culprits left it halfway when they realized the idol is not made of gold. A family member luckily found the idol and bought it back home.


The Bhog:
More than 20 different types of sweets are served to maa Durga at Laha Bari. A grand feast of ‘Mithai’- Tiler Nadu, Sujir Nadu, Narkel Nadu, Jibey Gaja, Jhad Gaja, Paan Gaja, Moong Dal er Laddu, Maidar Laddu, Peraki and more is offered to Durga Maa. After puja, the sweets are distributed among the visitors.

5. Dutta Bari at Balaram Dey street

Durga Puja was started in Dutta Bari of Balaram Dey Street by Shyamol Dhon Dutta in 1882. Kumari Puja is an important tradition in Dutta Bari’s Durga Puja. It is symbolic worship of the little girls as an embodiment of Mother Goddess). Kumari puja is hosted on all three days of the puja. ‘Dhunoporano’ is a traditional ritual here, when the women of the family sit with clay bowls known as Malsha filled with burning frankincense in their hands and on their heads as an offering to Maa Durga.

The Bhog:

A meal of Radhaballavi, Luchi, Khasta Kochuri, Lotus-shaped Nimki, Ledikeni, Darbesh, Narkel Nadu, Khasta Gaja and Mishti Doi which are prepared by the Brahmin cooks is offered to the goddess twice every day. On Dashami, the Duttas arrange for a feast of Khichuri and Payesh as lunch for their friends, neighbours and the less privileged.

6. Darjiparar Mitra Bari

The Mitra Mansion in North Kolkata is grand and over two centuries old. It is known that the idol of Maa Durga here sits on a grand throne, which is about 210 years old. A ritual is mandatory that 108 lotuses offered to the Goddess are replaced with 108 Aparjita flowers.


The Bhog:
A regular Naividya of rice, fruits and sweets consisting of raw materials are offered to the Goddess. Bori of different kinds is also offered along with pickles of various types. On the day of Vijaya Dashami before concluding the Baran rituals, the women of the house must eat a meal comprising Shukto, Shaak, Maach and Pickle.

7. Pathuriaghata Ghosh Bari

The best thing about Pathuriaghata Ghosh Bari is the grand ‘Thakur Dalan’. Babu Khelat Ghosh’s palatial mansion on 47, Pathuriaghata street is a place of antiques. The noteworthy thing about the pujo is the ablution of Naba Patrika or nine leaves used as a part of the ritual.


The Bhog:
A preparation of Chandana Kheer is made, which is a delicious milk pudding, tad runny, flavoured with sandalwood and the recipe is over a century old. In the evening, giant bowls of saffron-infused Rabri are served to Maa Durga. On Asthami, traditional sweets like Chandrapuli, mammoth Raj Bhog, Taal Shansh filled with jiggery are offered. Until a few years ago, a grand feast of Hilsa Paturi, Mutton Biriyani was arranged for the guest.

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Author:

Rupa Jana

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